Machine for making hand buttonhole-stitches.



l. FORMAN.

MACHINE fon MAKING HAND uTTowHoLE smcufs.

APPLICATIUM FILED MAY 20. l9l5.

Patented Juno 11, 1918.

5 SHEETS-SHEET l.

@Rhine-.30e o -e ee-MAM "g I. FORMAN.

MACHINE FR MAKING HAND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.

APPLICATION IILD MAY 2U. ISIS.

,um m w 2 I. n z H. m 2 .I w @c u a H uw 2 H H 7 u u n m j n Ul N i v J@N%\ @n AQ \M\\\\\ wm. @I5 \Q Nm IAM Imm, :Qw/ mw. 5U@ KAI m INFN @mi tme ooe o I. FORMAN.

MACHINE FDH MAKING HAND BUUUNHULE STHCHLS.

APPLICATION FILED MAYZO, I9I5.

l. FORMAN.

MACHINE FOR MAKiNG HAND BUTTONHOLE STITCHES.

APPLICATION Hun www, 1915.

1,269,415. lzlfmltwl JumI 11, 191g;|

T llbsmms SHEET 41 :Er- 1E- 1 Jil l. FORMAN.

MACHiNE FOR MAKING HAND BUTIONHOLE STtTCHES.

APPLICMION rLzu IMHO, |915.

l 269,415. mmmmlum11,uns.

, 5 SHLLYS SHEEY 5.

; E. l E

f l i wf W9 5 @im bnc aoc o JOSEPH FORMAN, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

MACHINE FOB MAKING HAND BUTTONHOLEHSTITCHES.

Application led May 20, 1915.

7?/ .lll w/wm z't ma concern.'

Be it known t at I, Josera FORMAN, a citizen of the United States,residin at Walbrook, in the city of Baltimore and btate of Maryland,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machines for MakingHand Buttonhole-Stitches; and I do declare the following to be a full,clear, and

exact description of the invention, such as 1will enable others skilledin the art to which lit appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and moreparticularly to that class in which the needle has a lateral as well asa vertical reciprocal motion for the purpose of forming buttonhole andother fancy stitches.

The main object of the invention is to provide a simply constructedsewing niachine of this character which employs a single thread only andwhich is constructed to form in a simple and eilicacious manner abuttonhole stitch identical with that made hy hand. i Another object isto provide improved means for gripping and releasing the needle and fortransferring it from one needle bar to the other.

Another object is to provide sim 1e and eflicient loop forming mechanismor machines of this character.

Another object is to provide a simple and eiiicient thread drawing ortightening at- `:achrnent for machines of this character.

With these and other objects in view, the nvention consists of certainnovel features if construction, and the combination and ar- 'an ement ofparts as will be more fully de- ;ori ed and claimed.

In the accompanying drawin f Figure 1 represents a side e evation of anachine equipped with this invention;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation thereof with he parts shown in the positionassumed vhen transferring a needle from the 'upper leedle bar to thelower;

Fig. 3 is a side elevation taken from th ide opposite to that on whichFig. 1 is aken;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail perspective iew showing the stitch forminmechaism with the needle positioned m its ex- 1eme uppermost positionreparatory to its escent for forming a stitclh;

Fig. 5 is a similar view showing the needle Speclcation of LettersPatent.

Patented June 11, 1918.

Serial No. 29,372.

in its descent outside the edge of the cloth plre aratory to itsengagement with the c ot Fig. 6 is u similar view showing the needle inits passage upward through the cloth;

Fig. 7 is a similar view showing the needle rising and the jaws of thestitch forming device in open position holding the thread in looped formfor the passage therethrough of the needle carried portion of nthethread;

Fig. 8 is a similar view4 showing the stitching or tightening means inthe act of removing the stitch or loop from the mechanism on which it isformed;

Fig. 9 is a similar view showing the tightening device in its outwardmovement for tiglhtening the thread to complete the stitch; 4ig. l0 is afront elevation of the stitch forming mechanism with parts broken oii;

Fig. 1l is a side elevation thereof;

Fig. 12 is a horizontal section taken on the line 12-12 of Fig. l0 withthe jaws in closed position;

Fig. 13 is a similar view of the jaws in open position;

Fi 14 is an enlarged end view with the need e bar partly in sectionshowing the upper needle bar ready to receive the needle;

Fig. 15 is a similar view showing the parts in the osition which theyassume after the needle llas been received and gripped by Said bar;

Fig. 16 is an enlarged side elevation of the lower end of the upperneedle bar;

Fig. 17 is a horizontal section taken on the line 17-17 of Fig. 14;

Fig. 18 is a similar view taken on the line 18-18 of Fig. 14;

Fi.. 19 is n horizontal section taken on the lille 19-19 of Fig. 3showing the thread tightening mechanism and the means for operating it,the thread tightener being shown in position ready for engaging athreadV in full lines and in its outwardly projected thread tighteningposition in dotted lines;

Fig. 2O is a detail front elevation showing the operating mechanism forthe stitch castoii' or tightening device;

F ig. 21. is a vertical section taken on the line 21-21 of Fig. 20;

Fig. 22 is an enlarged detail showing the gear carrying sleeves foractuating said tightener;

Fig. 23 is a vertical section taken on the line 23-23 of Fig. 22;

Fig. 24 is a transverse section taken on the line 24-24 of Fig. 22,showing the lu and recess connection of the two sleeves wit the lug atthe extreme end of said recess;

Fig. 25 is a similar view showing the lug at the opposite end of therece.

In the embodiment illustrated duplicate needle operating mechanism isshown arranged above and below the bed plate or work table l, theconstruction of which is exactly alike and hence the upper mecha-` nismonly will be described in detail. Each mechanism comprises a hollowL-sha ed bracket or arm such as is usually employe in machines of thischaracter having a head 3 cast upon one end of the horizontal arm 2thereof, and a main shaft 4 mounted in suitable bearings Within saidhorizontal arm, a bevel gear 5 being fixed to Said main shaft preferablynear its rear end. A band or driving wheel 6 is secured to the rear endof the upper main shaft 4 which latter projects through one end of thearm 2 and whereby motion is imparted to said upper main shaft 4 from anysuitable source (not shown). A vertical shaft 7 is rotatably mounted insuitable bearings in the hollow communicating upright arms 2 of thebrackets of the two mechanisms and is provided at its opposite ends withbevel gears 8 positioned to mesh with the bevel gears 5 on the rear endsof the'upper and lower main shafts 4 whereby motion is transmitted fromthe upper main shaft to the lower main shaft as is clearly shown in Fig.l.

Mounted on the front ends of these main shafts 4 within the heads 3 arelarge bevel gears 9 which mesh with similar smaller gears 10 mounted insuitable vertically disposed bearings 11 in the heads 3 and which arehere shown in the form of castings secured to said heads, said castingsbeing also provided with horizontally dis osed bear ings 12 in which arerevolub y mounted smaller bevel gears 13 which mesh with the gears 10for a purpose to be described.

Arranged parallel with the main shaft 4 and in a plane below it is ashaft 14 adapted to carry mechanism for controlling the release of theneedle by the upper needle bar to be described. This shaft 14 is mountedin suitable bearings carried by brackets 15 and 16 mounted res ectivelyon the arm 2 and head 3. A bevel) gear 17 is fixed to the rear end ofthe shaft 14 and meshes with a similar smaller gear 18 carried h anupright shaft 19 mounted lin suitable earings 2O carried by brackets 21being here shown as lateral extensions of the brackets 15 and 15 whichextend in opposite directions from arm 2. This upright shaft 19 isprovided intermediately of its ends with a worm gear 22 which mesheswith a similar gear 23 on the main shaft 4 vand by means of which motionis imparted to said shaft 19 and through the gears 18 and 17 to theshaft 14 for a purpose to be described.

A Worm gear 23 is carried by the upper end of the upright shaft 19 andmeshes with a similar gear 24 on a horizontally disposed shaft 25mounted in bearings 26 and 27 carried by brackets supported on the arm 2and head S respectively. This horizontally disposed shaft 25 carries atits front end another worm gear 28 which meshes with a similar gear 29secured to an upright rod or cam shaft 30 'disposed at the front of themachine, said cam shaft 30 having spaced cams 31 and 32 thereon, thepurpose of which will hereinafter a pear.

Fixed to the front o the shaft 14 is a cam Wheel 33 shown provided withtwo Vlarge cams 34 and 35 and two smaller cams 36 and 37 disposeddiametrically o posite to each other with recesses 38 forme between thelarge and small cams for a purpose to be described. l

The gear 13 has a disk 39 secured thereto to which is pivoted one end ofa. pitman 40, the other end of which latter 1s pivoted to a collar 41carried by a needle bar 42 whereby said bar and consequently the needlewhen engaged therewith will be reciprocated vertically as the disk 39 isrevolved by the main shaft 4.

A frame 43 is pivoted at 44 to the head 3 and in which the needle bar 42is mounted. The collar 4l has a laterally extending arm with asemi-circular bearing 45 thereon which is slidably engaged with a fixedup, right 46. An arm 47 extends laterallyfrom the free edge of the frame43 and extends in the path of the cam 31 carried by the shaft 30 bymeans of which on the turning of said shaft 30, the cam 31 operates toopen and close the frame 43, thereby causing the needle bar 42 toreciprocate laterally back and forth, the cam being so positioned andtimed that this lateral movement of the frame will occur atpredetermined intervals` toposition the needle carried by the bar forpassage through the cloth to be bnttonholed or through the space outsidesaid cloth in a manner hereinafter to be described. A coiled spring 48is connected at one end with the arm 47 and at its other end to the head3 and operates to return the frame to closed position after it has beenswung outwardly by the cam 31 and which serves to yieldably hold saidarm in engagement with said cam. The needle bars 42 are each providedWith needle receiving and clamping means here shown in the form of adetachable head 49 having a reduced extension 50 at its inner or upperend which ts between laterally spaced arms 51 formed on the adjacent endof the needle bar and between which said extension 50 is securely heldby izo suitable fastening elements. This head 49 has a bore 52 extendinglongitudinally inward and which is provided with a flaring mouth 53' atits outer end adapted to receive and facilitate the insertion of theneedle N which is adapted to be mounted in said bore. A jaw 53 ispivotally mounted at one end of said bore and forms a portion ofthe wallthereof being adapted to swing outwardly for releasing the needle. Thisjaw 453 is provided on its inner face with a plurality of gripping teeth55 which are designed to engage the needle mounted in the bore andfirmly clamp it between the fixed and movable walls thereof. Theclamping of the jaw'in operativeposition is effected by means of a yoke56, the vertically spaced arms 57 and 58 of which are shown U-shaped inform and are designed to encircle the head 49 of the needle bar aroundthe jaw carrying portion thereof, blocks 60 being shown secured to saidhead on opposite sides of said movable jaw, sutlicient space being leftbetween them to permit the jaw to swing freely inward and outward. Theseblocks 60 are of a width equal to the distance between the. arms 57 and58 of the yoke 56 and are adapted to serve as a guide'for said yoke andto assist in retaining it in operativeposition on the head 49. Fixed tothe head 49 at the rear thereof are two vertically spaced lugs 61 and 62which are positioned and shaped to fit between the inner lends of theU-shaped arms 57 and 58 and which coperate with said arms in retainingthe jaw 53 in closed position in a manner soon to be described. The head49 is provided in its rear edge or face at a uint between the arms 57and 58 of the yoke 56 -with a socket 63 which is designed to form .aseat for a coiled spring 64 arranged between said head and the cross barof the yoke andr which exerts its tension toy hold the connected frontends of the arms 57 and l58 in engagement with the jaw 53, therebyyieldably holding said jaw in closed position for reliably retaining theneedle within the `bore, or socket of the head 49. A screw 65 extendsthrough the cross bar of the yoke 56 'and enters the coiled spring 64forming a lguide therefor and assisting in holding it 1in o erativeposition to prevent wahbling o1 displacement thereof within the yoke.The head of this screw 65 extends beyond the cross bar of the yoke andis adapted to beengaged by a pivotally mounted depend-v ing arm 66 whichis positioned to engage said screw and on pressure being exerted zhereonto force the screw and the yoke with which it is connected laterallyforward igainst the tension of the spring 64, thereby releasing the jaw53 from its engagement with the cross bars of the arms 57 and 58 indpermitting said jaw to swing laterally nxtward to release the needle- N.A coiled Spring 67 is connected with the depending arm 66 and with afixed support for exerting its tension to normally hold said arm out ofen agement with the screw 65 as shown in ig. l5. A roller 68 extendsfrom one face of the arm 66 and is here shown adjustably mounted in aslot 69 to provide forthe changing of the position thereof relatively tothe cani wheel 33 in the path of which said roller is designed to liepositioed so that on the turning of said cam wheel the various camsthereof will bc brou ht into engagement with this roller for orcing thearm 66 forward at predetermined intervals for releasing the needle, itbeing obvious that when one of the larger cams 36 or 37 is engaged withsaid roller as shown in Fig. 14, said arm will be forced forwardly intoengagement with the screw 65 and thereby force the yoke 56 out ofengagement with the clamping jaw 53 for releasing the needle. This camis so timed that it will remain in engagement with the roller 68sufficiently long to permit the ne'e dle not only to be released but tobe transferred from one needle bar to the other. After the large campasses ont of engagement with the roller 68, the recess or dwell 38between the cams will be brought opposite the roller 68 and permit saidarm 66 under the tension of the spring 67 to swing away from the needlebar and thus permit the Spring 64 to bring the cross liars of the arms57 and 58 into clamping engagement with the jaw 53 and thus reliablylock said jaw in fixed position.

It is of course to be understood that when one of the large cams of onecani wheel is in engagement with the roller of its coperating arm 66, asmall 'cam of the other wheel must. be arranged opposite the roller ofthe other arm to provide for the opening of the jaw of one needle headand the closing of the jaw of the other needle head to grip and transferthe needle from one bar to the other as is clearly shown in Fig. 2 for apur ose to be set forth.

is releasing action of the jaws of the two needle ,bars takes place whenthe needle bars which carry them reach'the extreme limit of their strokein one direction; that is, at the end of their stroke which approachesthe work table. ln Fig. Q one of the large releasing cams of the uppermechanism is shown in the act ofreleasing the needle from the upperneedle bar and the lower bar is shown in the position which it assumesafter the needle is received and clamped thereby with the lower needlebar raised ready for its down stroke. The dwells or recesses 38 in thecam wheel 33 between the cams thereof serve to receive the roller 68 atpredetermined intervals for permit-ting the arm 66 to be held out ofengagement with the needle clamping yoke 56, the

of said bar by mailer cams and 36 serving to open the aws snflicicntlyto receive the needle to be gripped.

The needle operating mechanism being shown in duplicate and both drivenby a sinfle band wheel 6, motion being imparted 'lirectly therethroughto the upper main sli-.ift and to the lower main shaft by the verticalmain shaft 7 and the bevel gears thereon meshing with the bevel gears onsaid main shaft, one of said shafts is rotated in one direction and theother in the opposite direction as shown by the arrows in Fig. 2.

The stitch Aor loop forming mechanism employed herein and constituting apart of this invention comprises the eculiar construction andarrangement of links and jaws shown in Figs. 10 to 13, While operationthereof is clearly illustrated in Figs. 4 to 9 inclusive. This stitchforming mechanism is shown mounted on a bracket secured to the head 3and being here shown provided with longitudinally extending slots 71throu h which the fastening bolts pass to provi e for the verticaladjustment of said bracket toward and away from the feed table 1. wardfrom the bracket 70 and is provided with a bearing 73 in which the lowerend of the shaft 30 is revolubly mounted, said shaft passing throughsaid bearin and being shown held in operative position by collars 74secured to said shaft on opposite sides set screws or other suitablemeans. The arm 72 is provided at its opposite ends with verticalbearings 75 and 76 through which extend pintles 77 and 78, to the upperend of which are secured links 79 and 80, said links being pivotallyconnected at their inner ends to form a toggle-like connection, thepintle 81 which connects them projecting above said links and beingprovided with a roller 82 which is positioned in the path of the cam 32and by means of which said links are actuated in a manner hereinafter tobe described. A coiled spring 83 is connected with the link and with afixed support and exerts its tension to normally hold the roller 82carried b the linlcs yieldably in engagement with tlie cam 32 so thatwhen said cam is actuated, the links are moved outward by the cam andare retracted by the spring when the actuating portion of the cam passesaway from the roller. Two arms 84 and 85 are xed to the lower ends ofthe pintles 77 and 78 and are designed to be opened and closed on theopening and closing of the link-$.79 and 8O for a purpose to bedescribed. These arms 84 and 85 are provided at their freeends with eyes86 and 86 respectively Awhich are closed by spring tongues 87 and 87secured at one end to An arm 72 extends laterally forsaid arms 84 and 85at the inner side of 65 said eyes and with their free ends cxtendinoutwardly and closing the eyes at the terminals of these arms, saidterminals being here shown hook-shaped or diverging away from eachother, and the armsl are so mounted that 70 when in closed position theend of one overlaps the end of the other to position the eyes thereof invertical alinement.v

Two triangulaiplates 88 and 89 are provided at one corner with apcrturedarms 90 75 which are arranged on opposite faces of the arm 84 and arepivotally connected therewith as is shown clearly in Figs. 4 to 13.These plates 88 and 89 are of the same shape and size, being in the formof scalene tri- 80 angles with the longer or base portions 91 thereofpositioned adjacent the arm 8i andadapted to lap said arm on oppositefaces thereof. When so positioned, the free points or corners 92 and 92thereof will be po-.85

sitioned in overlapping relation to the eye carrying ends of the arms 84and 85, and these points are provided with corresponding eyes 93 and 93'closed by the arms 94 of a spring metal strip 94 so that when the 90other end of said link is pivotally connected with the triangular'plates 88 and 89 at a y point adjacent. the eye carrying cornersthereof, said link being so positioned and proportioned that when thelinks 79 and 80 are opened to their full extent asshown in Fig. 13, a.triangular space will be formed between the three eyes of the two arms84: and 85, and of the connected plates 88 and 89, said eyes beingdesigned to carry the thread which forms the stitch as will behereinafter more fully described. These plates 88 and 89 are rigidlyconnected at their inner corners 9G by means of a block 97 which forms aspacing member for said plates. The right angular link 95 serves to 116properly position these jaws with the eyes thereof in vertical alincmcntwhen closed readv for thc passa e therethrough of the needle carryingthe t read.

From the above description, it will be obvious that on the turning ofthe shafts 30 which occurs simultaneously, the cams 31 and 32 carriedthereby will operate. for opening and closing the frames 43 and the loopforming jaws respectively, these eratin so that when the frame 43 isswung o en the jaws formed by the arms and plates above described areclosed and vice versa.

A substantially 95 cams op- By this arrangement the jaws will be held inclosed position with the eyes thereof in vertical alinement when theneedle bar carrying frame is closed, thereby positioning the needle inalinement with said eyes to adapt it to pass therethrough when formingthe stitch as is shown clearly in Figs. l and 5.

lVhen the two needle bars move toward each other the needle N carryingthe thread T approaches and passes downward through the registering eyesof the jaws of the needle forming mechanism as shown in Figs. -l and theswinging har carrying frames 43 being in closed osition and the threadpasses through said eyes and the needle is transferred fromthe upper tothe lower bar in the manner above described. The shafts continue to turnbringing the cam 32 of the upper shaft into engagement with roller 82and the two cams 31 into engagement with arms 47 of the swin fing needlebar frames thereby opening sai( jaws and moving the needle barslaterally to position the needle N under the cloth C, ready to be passedup therethrough into the osition shown in Fig. 6. This opening of t ejaws forms a triangular loop L 1n the thread ready for the passage ofthe needle therethrough. The loop carrying jaws and frames 43 remain inthis position until after the needle has passed up through thetriangular loop L formed between the eyes of the jaws as shown in Fig. 7and said needle has been transferred to the upper needle bar. Then Ithecontinued turning of theA shafts 30 and the cams 31 and 32 carriedthereby wdully closes the loop' carrying jaws and t e frames 43, Fig. 8showing the jaws in the act of beingclosed. The frames 43 closesimultaneously with the closing of the 'aws to position the twoneedle'bars and t e overlappin eyes of the jaws in vertical alinementread for the next downward passa e of the need e. Prior to the closingof t e jaws and frames a stitch tightener 100 to be described operatesto draw or cast off the stitch from the eyes of the jaws as shown inFigs. 8 and 9.

During the closing action of the jaws, the thread tightening device 100moves outwardly by means hereinafter to be described, and asps thethread carried by the needle which is passed throu h the trlangular looponopposite sides o? the jaws, said device being provided with two hookshaped arms 101 and 102, and thus sweeps the thread with the stitchformed therein ott' said jaws, disengaging it. therefrom by taking itout of the spring closed eyes thereof, leaving the jaws in the )ositionshown in Fig. 9, said jaws having een closed by the spring 83' connectedtherewith and which 1omes into operation when the cam 32 moves )ut ofengagement with the roller 82. The

continued outward sweep of the tightener 100 exerts n pulling action onthe thread T and thus tightens up the stitch into the position slmwn inFig. 9, thereby forming the twisted stitch of the ordinary hand-madehuttonhole type.

After the stitch has been tightened to properly position it in relationto the other stitches of the buttonhole, the tightening device 100 movesback into normal position as Ishown in Fig. 7 ready again for the nextoperation, the needle being raised and held by the upper needle baragain ready to form the next stitch as is shown in Fic. 4. Thisoperation is continuously repeated until the desired number of stitcheshave been formed, as is usual with devices of this character.

The thread drawing or tightening attachment 100 which is shownconstructed with two hooked arms 101 and 102 spaced vertically apart adistance sufficient to enable them to pass over the overlapping jawsformed by the arms 84, 85, and the plates 88 and 89, 1s connected with abar which is mounted on a heavy wire or rod 103 which is preferably butnot necessarily resilient, said rod 103 being shown in Fig. 19 andhaving its rear end offset and connected with one end of a tubularcasting or sleeve 104 by means of an arm 105 extending laterally fromits lower end. This sleeve 104 is revolubly mounted on a stub shaft 106having reduced ends 107 mounted in bearings carried by laterallyextending arms 108 and 109 of a bracket 110 mounted on the housing.

This sleeve 104 has a lug 104' extending longitudinally from its upperend and which is designed to engage a recess 112 formed in the adjacentend edge of another sleeve 111 also revolubly mounted on said shaft 100.

This sleeve 111 has a bevel gear 113 fixed thereon with an annularshoulder 114 at its inner end which has an aperture 115 in its lowerface to receive one end of a coiled spring 110 which cncircles both ofsaid sleeves and has its other end fixed to the arm 105.

This bevel gear 113 meshes with a gear segment 117 which is pivotallymounted at its small end on the bracket. 110, a coiled spring 118connectin said segment with the bracket to yieldahly old the segment inretracted position, a stop 119 being shown to limit its movement in thisdirection.

This segment 117 is connected with the driving shaft. by means of acatch or cam member 120 engaged with a roller 121 carried by saidsegment (see Figs. 20 and 21). This catch is shown in the form of a.collar having arms or cams 122 and 123 extending at diametricallyopposite points therefrom and which are designed on the turning of saidshaft to en age said roller at predetermined interva s and swing saidsegment against the tension of spring 118 thereby turning gear 113 andsleeve 104, thus causing arm or rod 103 and the attachment 100 carriedthereby to swin out into the dotted line position shown in 4ig. 19.

The lug and recess connection of sleeves 101 and 111, the recess beinglarger than the lu r, in connection with spring 116, provides ihr acushioned movement of rod 103 when the segment is actuated therebyprevented danger of breakage of the thread when the loop is cast off.

When the tightening device 100 is moved away from the stitch formingmechanism it exerts suicient tension on the threadwhich it 'engages totighten the stitch in the manner shown in ig. 9 It is to be noted thatthe double pointed needle N has its eye near its upper end so that it iswithin the upper needle chuck when the needle is clamped by the latter,and hence the stitch tightener 100 will put under tension that port-ionof the thread between the needle and the last formed stitch. After thistightening operation has been com'- pleted, the wire 103 is swungbackward by the rearward swing of the gear segment 11Gr which occursunder the action of Spring 118 when the catch 120 releases the segmentandthe device is then ready for the next tightening operation.

The stitch herein produced, is formed by the concatenation of loops in asingle thread one carried by the needle N and the other by the loopersor 'aws throu h which latter the needle carried portion og the thread ispassed to form the twisted stitch shown in Fig. 9, the stitch being castoil' the loopers and tightened by the tlghtener 100 and heing identicalin every respect with a hand made buttonhole stitch. It is well knownthat numerous machines have been constructed for producing what areknown as machine buttonhole stitches, but so far as is known none ofthem produce a stitch of this type identical with those made by hand.

1 claim as my invention:

1. A machine for making a hand button hole stitch com risinincombination a needle, two nee le grlppin and transferring devicesmovable towar and away from each other and between which the material isfed, mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement ofsaid needle, and means for tightening said loop.

2. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, two needle grlppin and transferring devicesmovable towar and way from each other and between which the material isfed, mechanism for forming a loopencircling the path of movement of saidneedle comprising eyes alined when in one position to receive the needleand thread carried thereby during its passage from one needle "rippingdevice to the other, said eyes being laterally movable away from cachother to form a loop encircling the path of the needle and adapted toreceive the thread on the repassage of the needle and thread, and meansfor tightening the loop` 3. A machine for making a hand buttonholostitch comprising in combination a needle, two needle grippin andtransfer'- rin r devices movable toward and away from eaci other andbetween which the material is fed, mechanism for t'orming a loopencircling the ath of movement of said needle, including a plurality ofthread retaining means adapted`to be disposed in vertical alinement atpredetermined intervals for the passage therethrough of the needlecarrying a thread when said needle is moved in one direction, means formoving said thread retaining means awa. from each other to form a loopencircling the path of the needle, said loop being adapted to receivethe needle and the thread carried thereby on its movement in theopposite direction, and means for tightening said loop around saidthread.

4. A machine for making a hand button- 'hole stitch comprising incombination a needle, two needle gripping and transferring devicesmovable toward and away from each other, and between which the materialis fed, mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement ofsaid needle comprising a plurality of eyes for detachably receiving athread, said eyes being alined for the passage of the needle and thethread carried thereby on the movement of the needle in one direction,means for movin said eyes away from each other after t e passage of theneedle therethrounfh and preparatory to the movement of tihe needle inthe opposite direction to form a loop encircling the path of movement ofsaid needle, said loop being designed to receive the needle and thethread carried thereby and a swinging member for with drawing said loopfrom said eyes and tightening it around the thread carried by theneedle.

A machine for making a hand buttonliole stitch comprising in combinationa noodle, two needle gripping and transferring devices movable towardand away from each other and between which the material is fed,mechanism for forming a loop encircling thil path of increment of saidneedle, and means for shitting the needle in a plane at right-angles toits normal path of movement.

(i. A machine. for making a hand button hole stitch comprising incombination a needle, two needle gripping and transferring devicesmovable toward and away from each other and between which the materialis fed, mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement ofsaid needle. and means for shifting said needle laterally between itsdown and up strokes.v

7. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle barscarrying needle clamping means, and between which bars the material isfed. a needle adapted to be carried alternately by said bars, aplurality of thread carrying jaws having eyes arranged for verticalalinement when the jaws are in closed position, means for open ing andclosing said jaws at predetermined intervals, and means for casting oil'the stitch formed on said jaws.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle barscarrying needle clamping means, and between which bars the material isfed, a needle adapted to be carried alternately by said bars, aplurality of thread carrying jaws having e es arranged for verticalahnement when t e jaws are in closed position, means for opening andclosing said jaws at predetermined intervals, and means for casting offand tightening the stitch formed on said jaws.

9j A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch com rising incombination a needle,.two nee le gripping and transferring devicesmovable toward and away from each other and between which the materia]is fed, cam actuated means for effecting the change of said needle fromone device to the other at predetermined intervals,

mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement of theneedle and a swinging tightener arm for removing the loop from saidmechanism.

10. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle bars, andbetween which bars the material is fed, a needle adapted to be carriedalternately by said bars, a needle clamping jaw carried by each needlebar, means for holding said jaw in closed position, a laterally movablearm for releasing said jaw, and a cam wheel posi-V tioned to engage saidarm and force it into releasing engagement with said holding mea-ns atpre etermined intervals, said cam wheel having alternately arrangedlarge and small cams with dwells between them to provide for theprojection of said cam into engagement with said holding means and itsretention in said engagement for varying intervals.'

11. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle hars, andbetwe/en which bars the material is fed, a needle adapted to be carriedalternately by said bars. a needle clamping jaw carried b v each needlebar, resilient means for holding said jaw in closed position, a ivotedarm extending inthe path of sai( holding means. resilient means fornormally retracting said arm, and a cam wheel positioned to engage saidarm and force it into releasing engagement with said holding means atpredetermined intervals, said cam wheel having )airs ol oppositclydisposed large andsmall cams with dwells between them to provide for theprojection of said pivoted arm into engagement with said holding meansand its retention in said engagement. for varyingintervals.

12. In a sewing machine the combination of two alined needle hars havingneedle rcceiving` sockets with Haring nionths. a necdle adapted to becarried alternately by said sockets. a laterally movable needle clampingjaw carried by cach bar` a spring pressed yoke having U-shaped armsencircling each bar` blocks on said bar between said arms, and means forreleasing said yoke against the tension of its spring.

13. In a sewing machine the combination of two alined needle bars havingneedle receiving sockets with flaring months, a needle adapted to becarried alternately by said sockets, a laterally movable needle clampingjaw carried by each bar, a spring pressed yoke having U-shaped armsencircling each bar. blocks on said har between said arms, arranged onopposite sides of said jaw to provide for the free movement of the jawbetween them, and means Jfor releasing` said jaw against the tension ofsaid spring pressed yoke.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle barshaving needle receiving sockets with flaring mouths, a needle adapted tobe carried alternately by said sockets, a laterally movable needleclamping jaw carried by each bar, a spring pressed yoke having U-shapedarms encircling each bar, blocks on said bar between said arms arrangedon opposite sides of said jaw to provide for the free movement of thejaw between them, means for releasing said jaw against the tension ofsaid spring pressed yoke, and guide members on said bar arranged betweenthe members of said Ushaped arms.

15. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle harscarrying needle clamping means. and between which bars the material isfed. a needle adapted to be carried alternately by said bars, a pair oflongitudinally spaced bearings arranged in front of one of said needlebars, pintles mounted in said bearings and projecting at opposite endsthereof, links xed at one end to one end of said pintles and pivotallyconnected at their other ends. a cam disposed opposite said pivotallyconnected link ends, arms fixed to the other ends of said pintles andhaving spring closed c ves at their free ends. a member pivoted to one:i rm and an Lshaped link pivoted to the other arm, said link and memberbeing pivotally connected. said member having an eye at its free endclosed by a spring tongue.

- for moving said needle reci 16. In a sewing machine, the combinationof two alined needle bars carrying needle clamping means, and betweenwhich bars the material is fed, a needle adapted to be carriedalternately by said bars, a plurality of thread carrying jaws havingeyes arranged for alinement when the jaws are in closed position, meansfor opening said jaws at predetermined intervals and` for holding themopen until after the needle carrying a thread has been passedtherethrough, and means for closing said jaws after the passage of saidneedle.

17. In a sewing machine, the combination of two alined needle barscarrying needle clamping means, and between which bars the material isfed, a needle adapted to be carried alternately by said bars, means foractuating said bars and clamping means, a plurality of jaws having eyesor removably receiving a thread carried by the needle, means foryieldably retaining the thread in said eyes, said eyes being positionedto aline vertically when said jaws are closed, and automaticallycontrolled means for o erating said jaws in timed relation to t e needleoperating means to permit the threaded needle to pass through thealining eyes of the jaws when the jaws are in close position and to opensaid jaws to form a loop for the assage of said threaded needle to forma uttonhole stitch.

18. In a sewing machine, the combina- .tion of two alined needle barscarrying needle clamping means, and between which bars the material isfed, a needle adapted to' be carried alternately by said bars, alurality of jaws having eyes for remove Iy receiving a thread, means foryieldably retaining a thread in said eyes, said eyes beine positioned,to aline verticali when sai Jaws'are closed, automatical y controlledmeans for operating said jaws and needle to pass the threaded needlethrough the alining eyes of the jaws when the jaws are in closedposition to open said jaws to form a loop and to pass Said threadedneedle through said loop to form a buttonhole stitch, and means forremoving said stitch from said jaws and tightening it into enga ementwith the fabric being buttono ed.

19. In a stitch formin mechanism for sewing machines, the com ination ofmeans for vertically reciprocating a needle, means rocating meanslaterally at predetermined intervals, a loop forming device positionedin the path of said needle and having means for `engaging the threadcarried by said needle during the passage of the needle in onedirection, means for actuating said thread engaging means to form a loopafter the passage of said needle, said needle he' passed through saidloop on its movement in the opposite directhem, said 20. In a. stitchforming mechanism for sewing machines, the combination of means forvertically icciprocating a needle, means for moving said needlelaterally at predetermined intervals, a loop forming device positionedin the path of said needle and comprising pivoted laterally opening vandclosing jaws having thread receiving eyes positioned `to lap and alinewhen the jaws are closed, cam controlled means for opening said jaws,and spring means for closin needle being so actuated an timed in itsvertical and lateral movements as to pass through the alined eyes on itsvertical movement in one direction and through the loop formed therebyon its vertical movement in the opposite direction.

21. A stitch tightener comprising vertically spaced connected parallelarms ar- I ranged in vertical alinement and having hooks at their freeends extending laterally in the same direction, and means for operatsoing said tightener.

22. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch com rising incombination a needle, needle gripping and transferring devices movabletoward and away from each other and between which the material is fed,

mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement'ofsaidneedle and yieldable means for sweeping the loo from the loophformingmechanism and tig tening the stitc 23. A machine for making a handbuttonhole stitch comprising in combination a needle, needle grippingand transferring devices movable toward and away from each other betweenwhich the material is fed, mechanism for formin a loop encircling thepath of the needle, said mechanism includmg a plurality of membershaving thread receiving eyes movable toward each other te aline theireyes for the passage of the needle therethrough and awa from each otherto spread the eyes latera ly to form the loop and a loop tlghtenerhaving arms to straddle said eye members and movable in timed relationto the loop forming mechanism.

24. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, needle gripping and transferring devices movabletoward and away from each other between which the material is fed,mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of the needle, saidmechanism including a plurality of members having thread receivin eyesmovable toward each other to aline t ieir eyes for the passage of theneedle therethrough and away from each other to spread the eyeslaterallyto form the loop, a loop tightener movable toward and away fromthe loop forming mechanism, ac-

Laconic tnating means for said ti Yhtener, and yieldable meansinterposed etween the loop tightens!` and its actuating means.

25. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, needle gripping and transferring dc vices movabletoward and away from each other between which the material is fed,mechanism for forming a loo encircling the path of the needle, sald mecanism including a plurality of members having thread re serving eyesmovable toward each other to aline their e es for the passage of theneedle therethroug and away from each other to spread the eyes laterallyto form the loop, a spring retracted loop tightener movab e toward andfrom the loop forming mechanism, and yieldable cam controlled means foractuating the tightener in timed relation to the loop forming mechanism.

26. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a. double pointed needle having near one point an eye whichreceives a single thread, the latter having one end free and its otherend anchored, two needle gripping and transferring devices movable withrespect to each other and between which the material is fed, one of saiddevices being adapted to receive the needle eye, mechanism for formingin said thread between the needle and its anchored ends, a loopencircling the path of the needle, and mechanism for removing the loopfrom the loop forming mechanism and 35 tightening thestitch.

27. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, needle gripping and transferring devices movablewith respect to each other and bctween which the material is fed, aplurality of members having open thread receiving eyes movable towardeach other to aline their eyes for the passage of a threaded needle andaway from each other to separate their eyes laterally to form a loopencircling the path of the needle, cam means for controlling saidmembers, means for shifting the needle 'pping devices lateally withrespect to til; edge of the material being operated upon and in timedrelation to the operation of said e e members, and means for tighteningthe oop.

28. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, needle gripping and transferring devices movabletoward and away from each other and between which the material is fed,mechanism for forming a loop encircling the path of movement of saidneedle comprising pivoted members having open thread receiving eyes andmovable toward each other to aline their eyes for the passage of thethreaded needle therethrough and movable away from each other toseparate the eyes laterally to form a loop adapted to receive the threadon the repassage of the threaded needle, and means for tightening theloop.

29. A machine for making a hand buttonhole stitch comprising incombination a needle, a pair of alining reciprocatory needle barsbetween which the material is fed, means for actuating the needle barssimultaneously toward and away from each other, a needle chuck on eachbar to alternately receive the needle, a slidable member on each 75 barfor operating the chuck thereon, swinging members for actuating saidslidable members, cam controlled means for operating said swingingmembers, mechanism for i forming a loop encircling the path of theneedle, and means for tightening the loop.

30. In a sewin machine, a loop forming mechanism inclu ing a pluralityof members having open eyes through which a threaded needle may passwhen they are alined, and

means for actuating said members whereby when they are separated afterpassage of the needle their eyes are disalined to form a thread loop.

31. In a sewing machine,a loop forming mechanism including a pluralityof members having open eyes, connections between said members forsimultaneously closing them to aline their eyes for the passage of athreaded needle, and opening them to disaline their eyes after thepassage of the needle, and means for actuating the said connection.

32. In a sewin machine, a loop forming mechanism inclu ing a pluralityof memhers having open eyes through which a threaded needle may passwhen they are alined, toggle link connections for said members foractuating them simultaneously to aline and disaline their eyes, and cammeans for actuating said toggle connections.

33. In a sewing machine, a loop forming mechanism including a pair ofpivoted members having open eyes through which a threaded needle maypass, means for movi 0' 110 said members simultaneously toward an awayfrom each other to aline and disaline their eyes, a third eye memberpivoted on one of the first mentioned members, and a connecting theother of said pair of members to said third member, whereby the eyes ofall three members will be simultaneously alined and disalined upon theoperation of said moving means.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand in presence of twosubscribing wit-

